![]() Search this forum and you will find plenty of posts about setting timing by feel. I do that, using the timing light as a guide/check. Most here will tell you to set timing by feel. Then, set the timing light back to zero and you can then see the timing mark advanced 6 degrees of the TDC pointer on your engine. It would then adjust the strobe light so, with the timing mark in your engine set to TDC, it's actually 6 degrees BTDC. For example, if you wanted to set your engine to 6 degrees before top dead center, you would set the timing light to 6 degrees advance. Then set the spark/ignition so the timing mark on you engine is TDC (the timing light moves the strobe speed/timing so what appears as TDC on your engine sets the actual timing to your timing light's selected advance or retard setting. It strobes onto the timing wheel and you can set the timing light to the advance or retard that you want to achieve on the timing light settings. The timing light clips to your car battery for power and to the spark plug on cylinder 1 to pick up the spark timing. ![]() You should get a timing light - Amazon sells them - I bought this one. Well welcome aboard! Post some pictures if you can - would love to see your truck. I saw on another forum that said the 2.25 petrol engines have 98 tooth ring gears, can anyone verify this? I couldn't find another reference for the the number of fly wheel teeth. I was thinking about counting ring gear teeth and making my own mark based on that. How have people who have gone electronic set the timing to a spec like this which would need a mark well before 6° BTDC? Did you just start with the distributor set as it was out of the box and tune it by ear or what? My question is, how do you properly set the ignition timing if the marks on the flywheel only go to 6° before TDC? I haven't seen the specific instructions for my new distributor, but instructions for electronic conversions I have read say to set timing at something like 30° BTDC at 3,500 RPM (don't pick at these numbers, they are not meant to be specifically correct for a 2.25 engine, they are just for describing my anticipated problem). As I was planning on eventually switching to electronic ignition anyway, I ordered a replacement electronic distributor and a new coil that should arrive today. That didn't change the issue much, if any.Īfter further research and diagnosis, I determined that the vacuum advance diaphragm was busted. ![]() I didn't think that the carb was really the issue, but it didn't require any parts and I figured it couldn't hurt. It's a new Zenith carb that is less than 2 years old. It also ran better with the choke pulled out slightly.įirst, I cleaned the carb. When I got my Series IIA Landie, it ran pretty well but was rough between idle and about 2000 rpm, particularly under load. I became a Land Rover owner for the first time five days ago.
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